Top Hookah Bars: Mamlouk

The Scene

The background music starts the journey, a modal Arabic mix of sitar and tabla. Patrons are guided to tables named "Damascus," "Beirut" and "Jerusalem" by a motherly hostess who addresses them as "baby" or "darling." By the end of the meal--especially if you've been taking pulls from the strawberry tobacco-filled hookahs--you'll be convinced you're in a Paul Bowles novel, ready to wander out into the moonlit desert night.

The Food

Middle Eastern fare that runs the gamut from the familiar to the outre, scoring big in each category. Six courses are served; their composition is left up to the kitchen. Highlights include zatter, a flat, round bread topped in a dark, dried smear of sesame seeds, olive oil and thyme; a brilliant, virtually narcotic vegetarian mousaka; and mjadarra, a strange and wonderful sweet-spice-flecked lentil puree usually served with tender grilled chicken kabobs.